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Colors are set in the Wireshark preferences dialog, from the Edit menu -> Preferences, and then in the dialog by selecting Appearance -> Fonts and Colors.

By default the colors should track the "System Default" colors, but if the droplist to the right of the samples is set to something other than "System Default" the text and background colors can be set via the color patches that appear to the left of the samples.

There is no dark\light mode option as such, the underlying Qt library that Wireshark is built with doesn't yet support it.